Interesting questions – and, unfortunately, no-one really knows! While there is a lot of evidence supporting the origins of knitting - garments survive, it is mentioned in The Bible, represented in Art, from the Knitting  Madonnas of the 1350’s to today.  It is perplexing that there is very little evidence of Crochet.

THEORIES

Many regions claim to have invented crochet – from  Arabia, to South America, to China. No one nation can be identified as the origin of crochet, as there is, unfortunately, no empirical evidence to suggest that it was practised before the 1800’s. 
   

Nålebinding 

While several archaeological textile discoveries were originally thought to be crochet, we now know that they examples of Nålebinding (being Danish for ‘needle-binding) which is a technique for creating fabric that predates the origins of knitting and crochet. It looks like a cross between the two, and I can understand why Archaeologists get confused. It is a technique that is still practised today (mainly in Scandanavia and Iran), and it produces a very warm, dense  fabric. Only one needle is used for Nålebinding, and shorter lengths of yarn. The full length of the working thread is pulled through each loop. One of the oldest known examples are some coloured sandal socks used by Coptic Christians in the 4^th Century.
   

These were discovered in Egypt, and for a long time were believed to be knitted! There have also been discoveries of shawls and hats from Pracas and Nazca cultures in Peru dating from between 300BC and 300AD. The hardwearing nature of the fabric probably helped contribute to their survival today.
   

 Pamir Jurabs

Pamir Jurabs are thick socks initially thought to be crocheted, but now understood to have been created using a hook, in a process developed as an extension of rug making.  The surviving examples seem to bear a remarkable resemblance to Nalebinding – was it a skill that crossed borders?
   

 Tambouring

This is an ancient Chinese form of chain stitch embroidery, worked on a fabric stretched on a frame (lending itself to the word ‘tambourine’). It was refined by the French, who took away the backing fabric and effectively began crocheting ‘into the air’. It is unlikely that tambouring was an early form of crochet, as the set up of the hooks and frames precludes effective crocheting.
   

 Them bones!

One superb (some may say far-fetched)  theory is that crochet has been around for far longer than anyone realises, but that it was worked with forefingers – no tools required, no ‘hooks’ left behind! As any fabric created in this way has since disintegrated, no evidence remains to either prove (or disprove) this theory.  Unfortunately, one flaw with this is that there are surviving pieces of knitted, woven, knotted, and other fabrics – everything, it seems, but Crochet. If it existed pre-1800, surely some fabric would remain?
   

 TIMELINES

  
The 1800’s

Fortunately for us, there is evidence of crochet dating from the 1800’s. We’d like to think it existed before, but we cannot be sure. Whenever it began, it gained huge popularity in the 1800’s, where it emerged as a cheaper (and much quicker) alternative to producing lace.  It was, however, deemed to be an imitation status symbol for the middle classes, and the upper class initially  frowned upon the craft. It was alright for them - they could afford very expensive lace!

 
In the 1840’s, Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere published eleven crochet books, converting needle and bobbin lace patterns. Surprising, for a lady at that time, she owned a ‘fancy warehouse’ supplying lace making equipment and materials, and diversified  into crochet. She is popularly credited with the invention of Irish Crochet Lace, which was to become the saving grace to many poor families who were at that time struggling due to famine and war in Ireland and France.

Queen Victoria famously boosted the popularity of Irish Crochet Lace when she purchased some  – until then, it still had a reputation as being a lesser craft. She even learnt to crochet herself! She crocheted eight scarves (referred to as ‘mufflers’ in contemporary letters and documents), for presentation to Colonial and British troops during the Anglo-Boer War. Prince Christian Victor presented the mufflers to the troops in 1900. Each scarf was 9in wide and 5 foot long, with a 4in fringe at each end. They were worn over the shoulder, across the chest and buckled at the hip.

Queen Victoria always took a personal interest in the Forces. She also sent a box of chocolates to every soldier in early 1900 – it would have been impossible to crochet a scarf for all of them, I guess! Aided by the Monarch’s interest, crochet grew in popularity.

 The 1900’s

The popularity of crochet hit a peak between 1910 and 1920, with Edwardian fashions calling for more complex stitch patterns, primarily using white threads. It was perceived as a ladylike activity, as it showed off a lady’s hands at their best for any would-be suitors. Pattern books began to be mass-produced, and crochet took pride of place on clothes and household items.

In the 1930’s, fashion was much more simple. Art Deco was all the rage, and crochet was used primarily for children and babies garments, christening gowns, gloves and blankets.

During World War II, yarn was (gasp!) rationed. Crochet generally uses more yarn than knitting, and it was deemed wasteful. People began knitting socks, gloves and other items for the troops, using government produced patterns. It looked likely that crochet was doomed.

Crochet was, thankfully, adopted by a new generation in the 1960’s. It was transformed from the intricate work of the Edwardians into bright colours and granny squares – to the non-crocheters among us, it still retains this image. We know different though! The Weldon Company of London first produced the humble Granny Square as a printed pattern for using up leftover yarn in 1897, easily predating the Psychedelic  youth of the ‘60s. The pattern has been in print ever since, making it 113 years old, and a true classic. The ‘Granny’ has now been revived, with examples all over the catwalks of today.

 Left image: Paul Smiths AW 10/11 collection. Right image: Cate Blanchett in large granny square dress from Romance Was Born's SS 09/10 collection.

Crochet continued to grow in popularity, well into the 70’s. Ponchos were the Must-Have accessory, and these are once more gracing our high street stores.

Crochet began to fall out of favour in the 1980s. The economy was back on track, ‘shop-bought’ and flashing cash was all the rage. More women were working, and so they had less time for handicrafts and it was no longer cost effective to crochet. Crochet and knitting fell off the curriculum in schools – with no one to teach it, and a generation with no time to learn, it looked like crochet was once again faced with extinction.

Luckily, since the mid-1990’s, crochet has experienced a period of growth and fresh interest. Crochet may be seen as a hobby, but those of us in the know consider it to be an artform. Crochet teachers are in demand in yarn shops and colleges across the world, there are more patterns available, and we can rest safe in the knowledge that crochet will be around for a long time to come.

Crochet may be (relatively) new, but it has undergone a great deal of transformation - and always come out the other side. It has helped people out of poverty, boosted morale, been used for practical and beautiful items, and practiced by Peasants and Monarchs. 

Here’s to the next 170 years!